Cultures and Contrasts Project - Design Development and Final Outcome

In the second week of the cultures and contrasts projects we had workshops on how to create colour ways and palettes to help with our design work. We took photos with good colour schemes and selected out sections on photoshop which we could then duplicate. Using this method I was able to create reference images and a colour scheme based entirely on Venetian architecture and the anatomy of the human body.  

 

 Foiling layers with stitched heart detail 

Heat press transfer with
stitched detail

Now having a colour scheme to work with I decided, using my previous research, to convey my theme of  the the contrast between architectural (specifically Venetian architecture) impermanence and human immortality in a garment for my final outcome. My idea of how to do this was to create a surface design that mimicked the anatomy of the human body, but that is composed of architectural features such as a row of buildings as a rib or canals as arteries. My greatest challenge was deciding what the best method would be to render the design onto fabric. I started to make some samples in order to test what would be most effective for adding such a complex pattern onto fabric and retaining the detail. Here is a selection of my samples:                                              

Transfer paint and
melted chocolate coin wrapper

 After completing my sample work I decided to use the heat press transfer method for my final outcome so that I could scan in a design and have it printed onto a garment. This way I can retain all the detail as well as add colour digitally, giving me a wider palette and enabling me to use only specific tones from my previous colour way work. After some more development in my sketchbook I decided to make a kind of neck-piece garment that showed the anatomy of the upper body. With the Rialto Bridge as the design for the collar bone and the St. Marks Tower as the sternum. I also designed a section of the muscles at the back as the St. Maria Salute church. I did this design in pen and it is in proportion to the human body:

Front

Back

Final Design in Colour: Front

Final Design in Colour: Back

After scanning in my designs I spent the day adding colour using only my previous colour range, derived from Venetian architecture and human anatomy. This took a long time as I tried several different combinations and had to select each section of design individually. I am pleased with my final  result and feel the variety of colour works well as it is all in the same tone. I then had my design transfer printed onto fabric. I used the polyester provided by the college as it prints the clearest detail and my project is more about the design than the drape. 

Once printed I cut out the patterns and stitched around the edges to prevent fraying. I then used black elastic to attach the front to the back and create a finished neck-piece. As my idea is very conceptual it was a challenge to translate the ideas clearly into a finished piece of textile design work, but I did my best and received positive feedback from my tutors and peers. One problem I encountered was that once printed, the colours on my design came out in slightly different shades, changing the overall effect. This is a shame yet I am still pleased with my final product and really loved this project; the creative freedom it provided and particularly the research were enjoyable.  

Cultures and Contrasts Project - Research and Idea Development

Brief:

For our last project before assessments, and the beginning of our Final Major Project of our own choosing on which our grades depend, we were given more freedom to choose themes and more time than usual - three weeks - to complete our work. This was to help prepare us for our final project by showing us how to work in a longer time frame and maximise and focus our work when left to our own devices.



Our starting point was that we had to pick two contrasting ideas, and begin by looking at other countries or cultures for inspiration. I started looking at Venice, which has always interested me. As a floating city with canals for streets, comprised of a total of 118 linked islands, its beauty is famous. However, when looking at Venice I didn't want to do an obvious translation of its ideas by looking at its culture, venetian masks etc. I decided to work more conceptually and started looking at the idea that, despite being founded over a century and a half ago (officially at noon on the 25th March 421 to be exact) reports say that Venice is sinking. Therefore the theme I took from this is the idea of architectural impermanence. This gave me the idea of a contrasting theme, human immortality.

 There is actually no biblical support for the idea of 'soul immortality'- rather all references are to the idea of resurrection of the body.

'and many of those who slept in the dust shall awake, some to everlasting life' - Daniel 12:1-4.

Christianity teaches that belief in Jesus Christ will bring 'special salvation' in their mortal bodies.

'The dead shall be raised incorruptible...and this mortal must put on immortality' - 1 Corinthians 15:51-58.

While contrasting these ideas with architectural impermanence I researched the relationship between the human form and architecture. Looking at Leonardo Da Vinci's ideas of the' Proportions of Man' who along with other classicists believed that the human figure is the principal source of proportion behind order in architecture. The figure follows clear lines and rules, like buildings, and so when looking at form and line these two are closely connected.

Also, while doing further research in the library I came across and architect called Bruno Taut. Working in the Weimar period in Germany, Taut believed in the creation of utopian cities. Mountain top towns with crystal cathedrals and glass palaces he believed would channel human energies, and we would be freed from external realities and limitations, achieving a kind of spiritual immortality. This theory that the interaction between architecture and people can create immortality I found very intriguing, if slightly absurd and found it relevant to the ideas I was researching for my cultures and contrasts project.

With the themes I had developed so far I began experimental work in my sketchbook, looking and the mortal human form, shapes and anatomy and how it follows and can incorporate architectural lines: 

I also did some studies of the human body, taking photographs and doing life drawings with added anatomical detail to gather a deeper understanding of the shapes and the reality of the impermanence of the human body and how this could be related to architectural designs:

                                                                              

I then starting thinking about combining anatomical and architectural shapes to create a contrast. This line of design work is also something I am thinking about for my final outcome. To start the design process I drew and printed out architectural details from images of Venice and started cutting them out into rough anatomical lines to see how they would work on the body and on the stand:

Although working with paper made it difficult, this exercise was useful in determining shapes and design references for the next stage of development. So far I am really enjoying this project; I like the freedom of picking our own themes and how it lends itself to more in-depth research and experimental work. Also the additional time to complete my work enables me to explore the ideas fully. So far my primary and secondary research has been kept relevant and focused and I am looking forward to how it will translate into a finished product as I do more experimentation and start the design work. 

Anatomy and architecture, experimental work in sketchbook

Sportswear Inspired Design: Week Two

Design Development:

The pictures on the right are the work of designer David Koma, a Georgian womenswear designer based in London whom I found while researching for this project. I like his work because of the strong angular lines and panelling, which are styles I want to use in my designs to reflect archery's role in giving women power and freedom to show off their sexuality when they were allowed to participate in the 18th century.



With these ideas in mind and inspiration from David Koma I finalised the design work in my sketchbook and created 12 rough design sheets:

I am pleased with these roughs as the majority of them utilise the research I have done so far and embody the themes I was aiming to convey. I can now develop from these, picking out the most successful elements for my final six styles. In these designs I also established a colour palette and started thinking about fabrics. I gathered samples and started experimenting with draping on the stand. I wanted to use contrasting light materials, such as chiffon, with heavier leathers and pvc to create strong designs but with elements of the flirtation and romance that early archery practice granted women. This stand work enables me to see how the fabrics would work together:

This exercise was useful and I was pleased with the varying results and the ways my chosen fabrics worked together. Using leather belts and jackets, pvc, chiffon and light polyesters I tried different methods of draping, the easier method being to use the heavier materials as a base and structure outline while draping the chiffons and other lighter fabrics around this. However I also tried it vice versa so as to be more unexpected and experimental in my work. Then, I used the knowledge gained from this experiment, combined with my rough design work, to develop my six final designs:

Final Design 2

Final Design 1

Final Design 3

Final Design 4

Final Design 6

Final Design 5

I like my final designs and feel that are a good realisation of the themes of sexuality, romance and strength that I was trying to convey through my chosen sport of archery. The downfall of this project was my six designs were not yet finished by our class assessments on Thursday. I realised that I need to work on my time management skills to ensure I meet deadlines with the required amount of work. Nevertheless, once they were completed my final designs work well as a collection of high-end sportswear-inspired designs, but would likely be impractical in some ways to wear as everyday fashion due to the unconventional shapes and fastenings.